Akwasi Brenya

This fragrant and flavoursome rice dish has many variations, but this one is a vegan Ital take

It is September 2000, and I’m packing all of my possessions into suitcases, about to head off to university in Sheffield. Maame (Mum) has unsuccessfully tried to get me to cut my hair before the barber’s shop closes, but she does successfully teach me how to cook rice, a skill that has since saved me on many an occasion. I first had today’s dirty rice in March on a trip to New York, and found the transatlantic slave trade history behind it both sad and fascinating. The dish has so many variants, depending on what is available to the cook, and this one is an “Ital is vital” version.

Prep 15 minCook 20 minServes 4

50ml coconut oil, for frying150g finely diced onion 20g minced garlic 1 serrano chilli, or fat green chilli, deseeded if you prefer less heat, flesh finely chopped1 yellow pepper, stalk, seeds and pith removed, flesh cut into small dice 2 tsp chopped fresh thyme leaves200g plant-based mince1-2 tbsp dried Cajun seasoning, to taste – I like Badia2 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp dried parsley ½ tsp dried chilli flakes 2 dried bay leaves120ml vegetable stock 30ml soy sauce Salt and black pepper600g refrigerated day-old cooked white basmati riceCrispy fried onions, to serve1 small bunch chives, finely chopped, to garnish

Put the coconut oil in a large frying pan on a medium-low heat, saute the onions for two to three minutes, then add the garlic and fry, stirring, for another two minutes. Add the chopped chilli, yellow pepper and thyme, and cook, still stirring, for two minutes more.

Add the mince, cook, stirring, for a minute or two, then add the Cajun seasoning, oregano, parsley, chilli flakes and bay leaves. Stir to coat the mince, onions, garlic and pepper in the spices and aromatics, then pour in the stock and soy sauce, cover and leave to simmer for six to eight minutes.

Taste and adjust the seasoning, then remove and discard the bay leaves, turn up the heat to medium-high and add the cooked rice. Stir constantly, so it doesn’t catch, and cook until the rice is properly heated through (if you like, microwave the rice before adding it to the pan).

Spoon into wide, shallow bowls, top with the crispy fried onions to add some texture, then garnish with the finely chopped chives. If you want some more spice, garnish with extra chilli flakes, then enjoy your fragrant dirty rice.

Akwasi Brenya-Mensa is chef/patron of Tatale, a contemporary Pan-African dining concept.

This article was edited on 8 July 2023. An earlier version proposed Quorn mince as a suitably vegan product, when in fact it includes rehydrated egg white.